In Search of the Wild Dulse
For chef Evan Hennessey, seaweed not only shapes the flavor of his dishes, but is also key to shaping what he calls a “new New England” food culture.
After combing the Rye cove for half an hour, chef Evan Hennessey has found what he is seeking. He dips his hand under the low, tidal water to pull out a burgundy, iridescent piece of seaweed and then holds it up proudly, for his friend and me to see. He grips it by the base, so its wide, smooth fronds—the leafy part—lifts in the wind, spreading ou